All about French food mainly

Ten days in France. Flying to Marseille and about an hour and a half’s drive inland to Générargue in Langedoc-Roussillon (and the land of delicious rosé wine). Generargues is a small village in the middle of green forests and rivers for swimming. The house was full of charm, mostly good, some frustrating (including a bedroom with no electricity as the electrics hadn’t been updates for decades), owned by the family of a famous French playwright. Artwork was fabulous and books lined walls. A pool table for late night competitions ( I think Sam won? I definitely lost). Trees loaded with figs and nearby shops full of flavoursome veg and delicious cheeses and wines. France at its best.

We decided we’d walk to the nearest town – via the hills not the road, so a two hour-ish walk. Stunning scenery. We would get a taxi home after dinner.  Anduze is a small town with lots of bars and a few shops. Restaurants were generally closed the day we went so we ended up in a mediocre one with friendly service. On attempting to book a taxi, our waiter told us most people hitchhike. There were eight of us and four of us managed to persuade an Uber driver to come from another town twenty minutes away.  Joolz, Sam, Ruby and Ollo volunteered to faire le stop. Ruby and Ollo quickly got picked up by an older couple and were home in no time. We sent the Uber back for Sam and Joolz.

Travelling with our own chef (Simon) means that food is invariable better at home using all the gorgeous local produce. There was a pizzeria and restaurant in our village.  They were ok and we were glad to have them nearby. The boys found a 1.99 euro rosé in the Supermarché and we had a blind tasting with more pricey models as I turned my nose up and surprise I chose the cheap one.

Poussan

After a very restful week of hiking, swimming and reading (the rivers are so beautiful), we moved to Poussan, back down towards the coast, not far from Sète and Montpelier. A very lovely little town with lots of restaurants and wine bars. Our favourite was a tiny wine bar run by wife and husband team just behind the market. They really knew their wine and were super friendly and welcoming. Our best meal? A tiny Thai kitchen offering takeaway only – just perfect food.  Wish we’d eaten there more.

Oysters

This is the land of les huitres or oysters so a visit to Atelier & co., a degustation (oyster farm and tasting bar) was a must.  We walked through an industrial shed with oyster tanks through to the beachfront shack where big blackboards listed the various oysters and mussels on offer.  A simple wine list of five different Picpouls (I was very happy) and warm crusty bread with butter arrived in plentiful amounts.

I think this is the best place I’ve been to in ages.  SO simple. The view of the sea. Superbly friendly service. Stunningly fresh oysters and a big pot of mussels. They did offer cooked oysters and oyster nuggets as week as tiny oyster burgers in brioche buns – weirdly chicken like.  But not anywhere near as good as the untouched oysters themselves, served on an enormous platter. Couldn’t have been happier. After lunch we walked to Meze and swam in the sea.

We visited Sete and ate tapas style small plates in a very lively bar full of locals called Au bout de la rue – I would recommend this over the very touristy locales along the river.  Sete is compared to Venice by some – I would question that, but it was a lovely town.

We visited beaches near here too along the étangs where the flamingos hang out. Lots of beachbars and restaurants – and at this time of year, much quieter (and less hot) than the height of Summer  (we were there at the very end of August into September). Beautiful clear sea too.

Marseille

The last day, we had a late flight back. Half of us spent the day in Marseille and the other half in Montpelier. Marseille is beautiful and gritty and very cool (especially around Cours Julien, an area full of great bars, restaurants and hundreds of vintage clothes shops). I went to Marseille and had lunch at L’Escalié – absolutely delicious – would definitely recommend if you’re visiting. Stuffed courgette flowers, tender octopus with pureed squash, rolled aubergine stuffed with feta and pickles, tuna tartare with chilli and lime. I’d definitely head towards  Cours Julien instead of the water front / harbour area which is very touristy and has a number of fast food joints.

The Montpelier gang loved the city – great bars, jazz in the streets, good food. They raved about it and want to go back – so one for the wish list.

I love France – her food, landscape, people, language. All of it. Can’t wait to go back. Lots of inspiration for Papadeli cookery classes too.